I spent a
couple of days over the Fourth of July holiday scalloping at a friend’s house
in Hernando Beach at the mouth of the Weeki Watchee River. Being there made me
think about what I will miss about Florida when I make the final move to the
north Georgia mountains.
I will miss
being on the water in a boat heading offshore or up the inland waterway just
before dawn to go fishing. In the summer at that hour the air is cool, but
pregnant with humidity. You navigate by the lights on the bridges, the dimly
seen channel markers, and the low, dark shapes of spoil islands and the land. In
the distance, to the west, thunderheads rise high into the night sky over the
Gulf, their billowing shapes revealed by the constant flashes of lightening
that flicker within them. Sometimes, faintly, you can hear the low rumble of thunder
far off over the water.
I will miss
being on the water as the sun comes up. Dawn begins with a pale, barely
discernible aura on the eastern horizon. As dawn progresses, the stars begin to
disappear one by one, and you start to see the vague outlines of islands and
structures on the shore. At a certain point, when the sun is still below the
horizon, low lying clouds to the east and the high tops of thunderheads over
the Gulf are illuminated with a ruddy glow that slowly turns from pink to
reddish-orange. At that moment the day seems glorious and wonderful and full of
promise. When the crescent top of the sun's disc cracks the
horizon, the world is bathed in light, and the magic of the dawn disappears.
I will miss
drifting over a grass flats on a slow moving tide casting top water plugs for sea
trout, retrieving the lure with slow twitches to simulate a wounded bait fish.
As you reel the lure in, a quick swirl behind the plug lets you know that a
trout has risen to investigate. Sometimes there is a popping slurp and the lure
will slip sideways a few inches as a trout hits it from beneath. The best,
though, is when a trout hits the lure so hard that it flies into the air with a
loud rattle and the body of the fish arcs into the air.
They say that
the Great Plains is big sky country, meaning that the sky is visible from
horizon to horizon. The same is true of Florida when you are offshore on a
small boat. All you can see is water and sky in a 360 degree panorama. I will
miss that.
I will miss the
sound of fishing line ripping off a reel after your bait has been taken by a big
fish. The sound causes everyone in the boat to be galvanized into a flurry of
activity. One person grabs the rod, sets the hook, and announces, “It’s a big
one.” Others in the boat grab the remaining rods and quickly reel them in so
the lines do not tangle. As the fisherman fights the fish, the other persons in
the boat shout advice or encouragement. “Keep the rod tip up.” “Don’t horse it,
you’ll break the line.” “Tighten your drag.” When the fish is drawn closer it
makes a number of runs, pulling line off against the drag of the reel.
The number of runs, their length, and the way the fish is fighting gives
experienced anglers a clue about what type of fish it is. “Sounds like a
kingfish to me.” “No, it’s fighting like a big cobia.” “Bullshit, it’s a shark.”
When the fisherman finally draws the fish close to the boat, everyone gazes eagerly
over the side to be the first to see it and call out its size and species.
When, at last, the fish is cut free or brought into the boat, the person who
caught it wears a broad smile, while the others in the boat comment on his luck,
his prowess or lack thereof in fighting the fish, the fish’s size, the length
of the fight, and whether they caught a bigger fish the other day. In some
ways, this part of the catch is ritual, and, I imagine, not far removed from
the type of banter exchanged by our hunter-gatherer forefathers after a successful
hunt.
I will miss
camping on small spoil islands along the inland waterway in the winter. You
reach them by boat. Because you have a boat, you can bring creature comforts—large
tents, inflatable mattresses, collapsible chairs, a radio, a couple of bottles
of good wine, a flask of good bourbon, a grill, and a large cooler with good
food. After dinner, as the darkness descends, it begins to grow chilly. You
slip on a sweat shirt and sweat pants, light a small fire, and settle
comfortably into your chair, sipping your drink of choice and enjoying the tranquility.
When it comes time to go to bed, you snuggle into your sleeping bag atop a
cushiony air mattress and listen to the gentle slap, slap of the rippling waves
on the island’s shoreline only a few yards away until sleep overcomes you. Hard
to beat.
Yes, there
are things I will miss when I move from this place. Hopefully, north Georgia
will bring new and better experiences to savor.
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